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Candy Gourlay in Boracay White Beach

Holidays were few and far between when I was growing up in the Philippines – and when my family did go on the rare vacation, we tended to seek cooler weather in higher altitudes.

It was only when I became a journalist and met my first Westerners that I realized ‘taking a holiday’ was an expectation, not a rare event. Especially the foreign correspondents who all seemed desperate to go away all the time – and always to somewhere by the sea.

Don’t get me wrong, the Philippines is good at oceanside relaxation.

But though I was quite proud of our white sandy beaches, I really only began to spend any time there  when I hooked up with an Englishman. You know that thing people say about Englishmen and their castles? The Englishman and his seaside holiday was definitely a cultural leap for me. It was a strange and exotic thing.

I joined my Englishman on a working trip to South Korea, and of course he immediately announced that he needed to take a break and go to the seaside.

We went to a beach near Incheon, just West of Seoul. I think it was Sagot Beach in Baengnyeong, but I’m not sure anymore, it was 25 years ago.

huge sandy beach at low tide

The beach seemed HUGE. Miles and miles of sand. I immediately felt slight inferior. The beaches I’d been to in the Philippines had fine white sand, yes. But they didn’t go for miles.

You see, because the Philippines is so near the equator, I’d never really been aware of tides before.

Oh I’d read about it but I assumed that it was like the kind of tidal movement we had at home … the beach only lost and gained a few feet.

I’d never been this far north of the equator, where the sea slid far far away from the shore.

It reminded me of one of my favourite childhood picture books – The Five Chinese Brothers by Claire Huchet Bishop - in which the first Chinese brother could swallow the sea … and when he did, his head swelled up like a giant balloon!

the first chinese brother swallowing the sea and his head swelling up

I drew a cartoon on the Korean beach with an umbrella (why was I carrying an umbrella? I don’t remember). Here is an old, scratchy picture from that day.

Candy Gourlay sitting next to a giant cartoon on the beach.

After that picture was taken, my future husband and I decided to take a walk across that huge, huge beach to a lump of land. We sat there for a while before deciding to head back.

When we turned round, the beach was gone!

The sea was rushing in, fast!

In The Five Chinese Brothers, the first Chinese brother couldn’t hold the sea in any longer and had to let it rush back into the seabed.

‘Come on!’ Future Husband said. ‘We can get back to the shore if we’re quick. It’s very shallow!’

It was ankle-high as we began wading towards the shore. But the sea was sweeping in, rising alarmingly higher and higher.

We could see people playing and walking on the beach and, realizing that we were in a sticky situation, began to shout for help.

But nobody seemed to hear us. Nobody so much as looked up.

We were quite close to the shore when it became so deep I couldn’t stay on my feet. There was a swirling, sucking feeling too, and I couldn’t keep my head above water. I remember as I gasped and went under, wondering if this was it, this was the end.

Much later, I asked Future Husband what he was thinking at that moment. He replied, ‘I realized that I had to make a choice. Save the camera? Or save Candy?’

Luckily, he decided to save me. He grabbed me and held me high – and managed to save the camera too, which is why the photo of me on the beach survives. Then, struggling against the powerful undertow on tippy toes he got us safely back to dry land.

It still makes us shiver to think of it – we were almost taken by the horrible  Under Toad!

The umbrella didn’t make it.

After we were married, we moved to England and I discovered the joys of the English seaside. Only then did the Englishman’s obsession with sunny beach holidays make perfect sense.

We’re All Going On a Summer Holiday. Click above to watch the video or go watch it on YouTube


I’m the author of Tall Story. My next book for DFB is called Shine (I think) and if I finish it in time, will be out by late 2012. Do leave me a comment below or drop by and say hello on my website! www.candygourlay.com
Candy Gourlay
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Your Comments (17)
Jeannette
Monday, February 13th, 2012

Great story Candy. Strangely enough I got dragged out to see by an undertow when holidaying with my then future husband many many years ago too. Maybe someday I should share that story with everyone, or maybe not, given it involves blushes and a slipping halter bikini!

Candy Gourlay
Monday, February 13th, 2012

That’s the kind of story that definitely demands a pictorial element to it! I had a look at that photo again and realized there were TWO umbrellas. I wonder why.

Jackie Marchant
Monday, February 13th, 2012

I love the story of the under-toad! You should definitely put that in the book. And those white sandy beaches in the Philippines look gorgeous!

Candy Gourlay
Monday, February 13th, 2012

The Under Toad comes from The World According to Garp by John Irving. It haunted me long before I actually met it in Korea.

Juliet Clare Bell
Monday, February 13th, 2012

Great story, Candy. You can get really caught out with the beaches up in Orkney (where my parents are). Glad you were chosen over the camera, but wouldn’t it have been more romantic if he’d flung his much-loved camera into the sea in order to concentrate on you? Glad the picture survived though.

Can’t wait for Shine!

Caroline Green
Monday, February 13th, 2012

Oh my, that story chilled my blood. Me and my friend got swept out a bit further to sea than we would have liked when we were 17 in Spain, on a pedalo. I was so terrified as I couldn;t even swim then. Love the drawing on the sand though and you do look quite excessively cute in that pic :)

Candy Gourlay
Monday, February 13th, 2012

I like to think, if really really really really necessary, he was prepared to cast the camera to the seas. Being a shutterbug myself, I reaize it was a hard decision!

Richard Collingridge
Tuesday, February 14th, 2012

Great story…loved the punch line ;)

John Dickinson
Tuesday, February 14th, 2012

But are you any nearer the unfathomable mystery of why the English, marooned on their cold, wet, grey island, actually think their beaches are the right places to go on a holiday? Plus one never gets the sand out of one’s teeth after.

Helen Peters
Tuesday, February 14th, 2012

Loved this story and love your cartoon in the sand, Candy. And those beaches in the Philippines look amazing – made me long for a sunny beach holiday, especially after spending today hosing mud off my children in the English countryside!

Candy Gourlay
Wednesday, February 15th, 2012

John, I love the English seaside! It’s so exotic! But I wouldn’t go in the water if you paid me. Helen, hosing off the mud is part of the fun!

SF Said
Wednesday, February 15th, 2012

Mmm, those beaches look fantastic! I’m glad he saved you, though that old picture is wonderful – do you remember what kind of camera it was?!

Candy Gourlay
Wednesday, February 15th, 2012

Ah, a widgety question! The camera was a Canon T70 (called a rebel in the US) … I’ve been upgrading from that series since I started taking photos! Future Husband and I used to spend a lot of time in the darkroom – added that black broder in the print. Wish I still had the negative!

Addy Farmer
Wednesday, February 15th, 2012

Brill story! I LOVE the seaside except when it’s the nudist seaside which is where my husband took me with our little baby. I kept my duffle coat firmly on whilst he embraced the whole concept. We are still married.

Candy Gourlay
Friday, February 17th, 2012

@Addy so … do you revisit that particular holiday album often?

SF Said
Saturday, February 18th, 2012

Mmm, I love darkrooms! It’s a shame there isn’t quite an equivalent for writing….

Addy Farmer
Friday, February 24th, 2012

@Candy – photos!! I don’t think so.

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